Gdansk and Torun


Gdansk, well, where do we start with this gem?
As we drove into Gdansk on Tuesday afternoon, the first impressions we got were a combination of what we could see out of the bus window combined with the commentary we were hearing from the local guide we had on board. That wasn't really a lot more than what we already knew from our own memories of the solidarity campaign of the 80's with the infamous Lech Walesa, the unionisation of the ship building industry and the  eventual democratic changes in the Eastern Bloc. Boy, there's a lot more to Gdansk than that. 

The gate to the infamous shipyard that brought an end to Communism
 After dinner, a few of us ventured out for a walk. Within minutes of leaving the hotel we were in amongst a beautiful waterfront that would even rival parts of Copenhagen. Many of the cafe's were unfortunately a bit quiet, with televisions still going with the post mortem of Poland's loss to Senegal in the World Cup only an hour earlier. Judging by the glasses on tables, the places must have been packed to the rafters earlier taking advantage of the big screens but no doubt they were all at home under the doona by the time we got there. It gave us a taste of what to expect in Wednesday's tour.
Our group at dinner in Gdansk
The Gdansk waterfront
 Wednesday 20th.
Our tour had us on the bus for the short trip to nearby Sopot where we kicked off with the first of (1 or 2 too many) church visits. No doubt it was a good one, but I'm over them. 
Next was a walk out over the Baltic Sea on the pier and that was certainly a walk and a half. Not only were we blessed with the most delightful 25 degrees and not a cloud in the sky day, but stunning views looking back towards shore from the end of the 512 metre pier. It was once Europe's longest piers but now it is only the longest wooden one. It is extremely well maintained and attracts a million tourists each year.
And hey, would you believe they have a long wide beach with golden sand.

Sopot shop

Looking back from the pier
 Next thing, we were at the European Solidarity Museum for a quick look and free use of the toilets. (Rare in Europe.) Most here normally hit you for 2 Zloty (70 Aussie cents) for the privilege. Then churches, yep, more of them and St Mary's claims to be the biggest brick church in the world.
 
Brickwork like I've never seen before
Our local guide left us after five informative hours having walked us through the old town. Rows and rows of rebuilt and restored buildings that copped a fair pounding from the Russians during the war. City gates, a magnificent City Hall and 600 metres of cobblestoned road down the main drag made this an extremely memorable walk. We've just had a bit of recovery time back at the hotel and are preparing to head out to dinner with the rest of the group soon.

Compare the top left picture with the photo below


This is certainly a relaxed tour which we are all finding terrific at this stage. There is no rush at all in the mornings with plenty of time to enjoy breakfast. There is none of the stress of making sure your luggage is out by 7:00 like a lot of tours. The later starts and only 15 on tour suits us just fine.

Thursday 21st
We're on the bus and have just left Torun having driven the two hours to get there this morning. We did a tour of the town and had lunch in a small cafe before leaving.
To give you an idea of just how cheap it is here, we had two king size sausage rolls, an apple juice and half a litre of beer for 6 Aussie bucks.

Torun is a big walled city that dates back to the 13th century. It is another city that was first established by the Teutonic Knights and quickly expanded. Fortunately, it didn't cop a hiding during the war so lots of the place is in pretty good nick. Although it is still walled, none of the original wall remains. Over the centuries and for various reasons it has been moved, altered, demolished or replaced. There are some great examples of Gothic architecture medieval townhouses.

At the city gates, you look straight out at the river so this provided another level of protection. We stopped at a leaning tower along the wall and checked it out. The clay base that it is built on has subsided somewhat over the centuries. I'm not sure if it has been underpinned or not but a timber wall that was added to turn it into a jail a couple of hundred years ago is certainly giving it a bit of stability.
 
The leaning tower in Torun
We were treated to many of the typical city sights that we now expect to see in Europe. Churches, a Cathedral, A City Hall and a town square. You rarely find two the same and there are always different statues, fountains, shops and buildings that attract your interest. 

What makes Torun slightly different is their claim to fame for gingerbread. Every street has a bakery or shops selling it. Toruns' gingerbread is softer than most, seems to have a few more spices and is maybe a bit sweeter than others. I couldn't find anyone that doesn't like it.
 
Torun streetscape
We'll soon be in Kalisz for the night where we'll take part in a Polish dumpling making workshop before we have dinner. It is the oldest city in Poland and we are staying at the Tlokinia Palace about 5km from town. I hope to get this posted tonight too.
The temperature today was low 30's but a storm is expected this evening. It certainly looks like it is building up. The forecast for the next couple of days is only 18-19 degrees. A bit disappointing but we've had a great run for the last 4 weeks.
Cheers again.

At last, someone who talks sense


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